My sister-in-law lives in The Jura, an area of Eastern France near the Swiss border. It’s not a particularly well-known part of the country and you’ll have to work hard to find it in many guide books (honorable exception: The Rough Guide To France). It’s still a pretty part of the country, and plonked in the middle of a forest is a remarkable set of pre-revolutionary buildings: the Royal Salt Works (Saline Royale, for those of you who speak the lingo).

Royal Salt Works, France.

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North-by-North-west of Toulouse, the Lot and Dordogne departmentare a joy to behold: well-preserved medieval towns called Bastides with their neat churches, gridiron layouts and square covered markets cling to the limestone banks of the rivers for which the regions are named. One of life’s pleasures in this region is to sit comfortably in a café in the shade of a Bastide’s covered market on a summer’s day, enjoying a glass of the local Cahors wine. What the tour guides fail to mention is that these picture-perfect villages are the result of 13^th
and 14^th century global economic forces, technological innovation and plain old real-estate speculation.

Belves market square - a classic Bastide layout

The first clue to the commercial purpose of the Bastide is its layout- specifically, the location of the church. Elsewhere in France and other European countries, the church usually occupies a strong or central position in the town or village. Often it had its own square, vying for attention with the market square. But in Bastides, the market occupies the center of the village, with the church pushed off to one side. In this photo of Belves in the Dordogne (left), you can see the church is off a side-street from the main market square.

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